February 29 :: Radda in Chianti, Italy :: 52km / 346km total
A hilly start, but nothing new, and we sped along. The group is really coming into form now, everyone getting their cycling legs beneath them. The mileage flew by, even the final switchbacks up into Radda were knocked away in record time. The only troubles we've encountered, really, are the lack of business hours carried out by most establishments here in Italy. Most restaurants and other businesses are closed from noon til 4pm, and hotels are not matching the rates that we reserved online (i.e. we show up and they demand 5-15 euros more than our quoted reservation). When in Rome... I suppose....
We are now 1 day's ride from Florence, but due to difficulty in hotel reservations we will split the final ride into town over 2 days. Nancy, Tim Kenton, and Dad are considering flying home a day or two early, with possible layovers in London. Liz and I are looking at 2 days in Rome... Rome is only 2 hours away by bullet train from Florence.
Friday, February 29, 2008
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Pics from Kenton
Church dome roof in Florence
Dad's gone missing (I found him!)
Setting out from Florence - before we knew what we were getting into
Classic Tuscany - Winter crop
Please, not more Renaissance art
Siena gate
Piazza Il Campo from above
Dinner in the former sewers of Siena (the food tasted better than you would expect)
Early start
Montalcino from the fortress walls
But who REALLY are the sheep? Traffic-jam Tuscany-style
Approaching our castle stay
Inside the castle; rooms up the ramp
Two lonely figures
February 28 :: Asciano, Italy
February 28 :: Asciano, Italy :: 44km / 294km total
A great breakfast at the hotel set us up well for a good ride to Asciano. As the group left one by one, and I assumed my usual back-of-the-pack start, the unthinkable happened: my bike fell over and (surprisingly) snapped the hitch connection to the trailer! "This isn't happening" I murmured, and set about to juryrig a connection. Using a backup safety-rope from the trailer hitch I was able to wrap a fairly solid connection, but still was hesitant as I rolled away from the castle, both watching the trailer and trying to ride down the group. The road turned upwards (its not a real cycling day in Tuscany without lots of tough climbs), and it was just at hilltop Pienza that I caught them... trailer faithfully in tow.
Away from Pienza the road descended, and Liz made sure I was wearing my helmet, now with the trailer having a bit more life of it's own. Tim's knee was suffering a bit, so I had the added fun of carrying along 30 more pounds of gear. More descents, more climbs, a toilet without a seat, but solidly we made it early into Asciano, everyone seeming to find their rhythm. Two more cycling days left!!
A great breakfast at the hotel set us up well for a good ride to Asciano. As the group left one by one, and I assumed my usual back-of-the-pack start, the unthinkable happened: my bike fell over and (surprisingly) snapped the hitch connection to the trailer! "This isn't happening" I murmured, and set about to juryrig a connection. Using a backup safety-rope from the trailer hitch I was able to wrap a fairly solid connection, but still was hesitant as I rolled away from the castle, both watching the trailer and trying to ride down the group. The road turned upwards (its not a real cycling day in Tuscany without lots of tough climbs), and it was just at hilltop Pienza that I caught them... trailer faithfully in tow.
Away from Pienza the road descended, and Liz made sure I was wearing my helmet, now with the trailer having a bit more life of it's own. Tim's knee was suffering a bit, so I had the added fun of carrying along 30 more pounds of gear. More descents, more climbs, a toilet without a seat, but solidly we made it early into Asciano, everyone seeming to find their rhythm. Two more cycling days left!!
February 27 :: Spedaletto, Italy
February 27 :: Spedaletto, Italy :: 32km / 250km total
A late start to coincide with the late 10:30am opening of Abbazia di Sant Antimo, 10km down the road from Montalcino. The abbey was an 11th century building with plenty of history, and an interesting stop. Back on the bikes some rolling riding brought us to the base of a climb that took us over an hour to do... on the many switchbacks you could see members of our group both directly above you, and/or directly below you, pedalling the serpentine road. Nancy and Liz strategically took a shortcut up across a farmer's field, skimming about half a kilometre off one particular turn. Finally, finally we summitted and rolled along the high ridge, just touching the clouds, to lunch at Castiglione d'Orcia. A rocketing 4km descent and a bit of flats riding brought us to Spedaletto, a 12th century castle in which we stayed in 21st-century renovated accomodations.
The only drawback (initially) of the place was that, although we had a full kitchen and cooking facilities, we had no food... so Kenton and I rode off (unladen for once!!) up to San Quirico d'Orcia, a large town 8km away. After some trouble we had our saddlebags loaded, and rocketed back to the castle. Liz and Nancy (and Graham!) whipped up a great dinner, and we were asleep early, ready for tomorrow's ride.
A late start to coincide with the late 10:30am opening of Abbazia di Sant Antimo, 10km down the road from Montalcino. The abbey was an 11th century building with plenty of history, and an interesting stop. Back on the bikes some rolling riding brought us to the base of a climb that took us over an hour to do... on the many switchbacks you could see members of our group both directly above you, and/or directly below you, pedalling the serpentine road. Nancy and Liz strategically took a shortcut up across a farmer's field, skimming about half a kilometre off one particular turn. Finally, finally we summitted and rolled along the high ridge, just touching the clouds, to lunch at Castiglione d'Orcia. A rocketing 4km descent and a bit of flats riding brought us to Spedaletto, a 12th century castle in which we stayed in 21st-century renovated accomodations.
The only drawback (initially) of the place was that, although we had a full kitchen and cooking facilities, we had no food... so Kenton and I rode off (unladen for once!!) up to San Quirico d'Orcia, a large town 8km away. After some trouble we had our saddlebags loaded, and rocketed back to the castle. Liz and Nancy (and Graham!) whipped up a great dinner, and we were asleep early, ready for tomorrow's ride.
February 26 :: Montalcino, Italy
February 26 :: Montalcino, Italy :: 64km / 218km total
We set off at 7am, the earliest yet, for what should be the longest ride of the trip. Brrrr it was cold as we descended the hectic switchbacks out of Siena, heading South. Soon we left the city environs and were pedalling along a beautiful, quiet, rolling country road. The scenery in Tuscany continued to be fantastic, a constant 9 out of 10 in all directions. A big climb into the semi-mountainous hill country had everyone straining, but eventually we rolled into the large non-tourist town (yay!) of Buonconvento for lunch.
After some less-than-spectacular food we rolled off prepared (?) for the final assault on Montalcino. A dramatic, brutal winding climb brought us up to the hilltop town, cycling up switchbacks that wound beneath Montalcino's fortress walls. Montalcino was surprisingly empty of tourists, compared to the previous tourist hilltowns that we'd been in. We checked into our hotel, walked the fortress walls, and settled in for the night.
Monday, February 25, 2008
February 25 :: Siena, Italy
February 25 :: Siena, Italy :: 0km / 154km total
Our first day off of our ride, and I think the group is glad for it. Liz and I saw most of what we had wanted to see in Siena yesterday, so it will be a very placid day for us. Dad and Kenton for sure will be on a breakneck sightseeing pace. The food in Italy continues to be very good, but very redundant, with very little variation from restaurant to restaurant. It is surprising with all the tourists from all over the world that there are no sushi bars, burger joints, Chinese or Indian restaurants. They all certainly would have our business!
Tomorrow's ride will be the longest of the trip, about 62km to Montalcino. We are starting extra early, braving the chilly morning air to give time so as not to have to rush it.
Our first day off of our ride, and I think the group is glad for it. Liz and I saw most of what we had wanted to see in Siena yesterday, so it will be a very placid day for us. Dad and Kenton for sure will be on a breakneck sightseeing pace. The food in Italy continues to be very good, but very redundant, with very little variation from restaurant to restaurant. It is surprising with all the tourists from all over the world that there are no sushi bars, burger joints, Chinese or Indian restaurants. They all certainly would have our business!
Tomorrow's ride will be the longest of the trip, about 62km to Montalcino. We are starting extra early, braving the chilly morning air to give time so as not to have to rush it.
February 24 :: Siena, Italy
February 24 :: Siena, Italy :: 47km / 154km total
The nuns in the monastery were absent in the morning, so I had to stay behind to pay, while the other 5 set off towards Siena. By the time I was packed and ready one of them showed up, and I set off quickly to ride the group down, half an hour ahead of me. Out of San Gimignano the road plummeted down a long, steep, winding, foggy descent to a valley bottom, then turned abruptly upwards, switchbacking to gain elevation. Just at the very top of the 4km climb I caught the tail end of our group and I was impressed with how well they had managed to get through the hilly terrain. From there on into Siena the road flattened somewhat, now rolling hills rather than the semi-mountainous landscape that we'd been traversing for the past 3 days.
Siena is another classic medieval town and it was a beautiful ride into it's centre where our hotel was waiting for us. Tomorrow is a well-deserved day off for all, time to heal up various sore knees, legs, and ankles among the group.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
February 23 :: San Gimignano, Italy
February 23 :: San Gimignano, Italy :: 26km / 107km total
A shorter and flatter -> flatter only by Tuscany standards <- 26km day promised a bit of respite today, and we made it into San Gimignano by noon. Still very hilly, but we are settling into a rhythm now and know what to expect of the mileage and terrain. As usual Kenton leads the way, and we had to send him ahead - father ahead than he usually is - to grab our rooms in San Gimignano before our hotel-monastery's reception closed (at noon!). Dad usually follows in Kenton's wake, speeding along not based on his climbing, but on the account of his fearless (crazy?) hill-descending. Nancy, Tim, and Liz form the core pack, consistently putting away the kilometres, Tim often stopping for pictures. I usually stay near the rear, since I'm needed to deal with any mechanical problems. Its a happy group.
San Gimignano is a very touristy town, an easy daytrip from either Florence or Siena, and prices around here reflect that. We were just getting used to "real Italy" when all of a sudden prices jumped 25-50%. Ah well, we are tourists too. Liz and I climbed one of the town's famous towers (see pic), great views all around. Tomorrow we ride to Siena.
from the top of the Torra Grossa, looking over San Gimignano
A shorter and flatter -> flatter only by Tuscany standards <- 26km day promised a bit of respite today, and we made it into San Gimignano by noon. Still very hilly, but we are settling into a rhythm now and know what to expect of the mileage and terrain. As usual Kenton leads the way, and we had to send him ahead - father ahead than he usually is - to grab our rooms in San Gimignano before our hotel-monastery's reception closed (at noon!). Dad usually follows in Kenton's wake, speeding along not based on his climbing, but on the account of his fearless (crazy?) hill-descending. Nancy, Tim, and Liz form the core pack, consistently putting away the kilometres, Tim often stopping for pictures. I usually stay near the rear, since I'm needed to deal with any mechanical problems. Its a happy group.
San Gimignano is a very touristy town, an easy daytrip from either Florence or Siena, and prices around here reflect that. We were just getting used to "real Italy" when all of a sudden prices jumped 25-50%. Ah well, we are tourists too. Liz and I climbed one of the town's famous towers (see pic), great views all around. Tomorrow we ride to Siena.
from the top of the Torra Grossa, looking over San Gimignano
Tim and Nancy enjoying gelato and ice cream
February 22 :: Volterra, Italy
February 22 :: Volterra, Italy :: 39km / 81km total
An extremely hilly day to Volterra, with 2 massive climbs making the 39km seem like much, much more. Fortunately the scenery along the way kept the pain down, for most(?). A pleasant lunch in the middle also broke things up, as much as the hills broke us up. But in the end we struggled into the high hill town of Volterra and there were still many smiles around. Volterra is a beautifully situated tourist town, and we could even see the Mediterranean from the town's walls, shimmering 50km away in the setting Sun. We stayed in a seminary last night, very quiet and peaceful.
The hilly Tuscan landscape
Volterra
An extremely hilly day to Volterra, with 2 massive climbs making the 39km seem like much, much more. Fortunately the scenery along the way kept the pain down, for most(?). A pleasant lunch in the middle also broke things up, as much as the hills broke us up. But in the end we struggled into the high hill town of Volterra and there were still many smiles around. Volterra is a beautifully situated tourist town, and we could even see the Mediterranean from the town's walls, shimmering 50km away in the setting Sun. We stayed in a seminary last night, very quiet and peaceful.
The hilly Tuscan landscape
Volterra
The seminary where we stayed
Thursday, February 21, 2008
February 21 :: Castelfiorentino, Italy
February 21 :: Castelfiorentino, Italy :: 42km / 42km total
A beautiful, warm day greeted us as we ate breakfast and moved our bikes + gear down from our hotel 3 stories to ground level. A bit of nervousness, I think, among the group, since the task and distances ahead were unknown and unquantifiable to at least 3 of them. After assembling ourselves we moved slowly and carefully out into the rushing Italian traffic and headed South. Although fast and frantic and driving on narrow roads, the Italian drivers are excellent with respect to cyclists, and it was no problem at all riding through busy downtown Florence, even for me with my wide 100-pound bicycle trailer in tow.
After 7km we left Florence and moved onto smaller roads. A punishing switchbacking climb woke up all of our legs and was a good reality check that we would have to earn the miles here in Italy. The pace dropped, but everyone soldiered on patiently and cheerfully. From there on in to Castelfiorentino the road rolled, sometimes dramatically, but offered many tremendous views over the Tuscan countryside. The Old World buildings that we rolled by added to the ambiance, yes, I'm not sure you can beat Tuscany for cycling. Food and drinks were plentifully available, now at quite reasonable prices, as opposed to downtown Florence (now similar prices to Canada, including the exchange rate). The temperature climbed and at 1pm was close to 20C... perfect cycling weather.
We rolled into Castelfiorentino a tired but happy group, ready for tomorrow's hilly ride to Volterra. I'm quite happy and impressed with how well everyone did today, particularly how positive everyone stayed when the hills got bad (i.e. a bit of walking for some). I get the feeling that everyone felt a sense of accomplishment with today's ride and they now know that the distances are do-able, not just numbers pulled out of my hat when I planned the trip out!
Kenton leading the charge up the hill
Looking over the Tuscan landscape
Dad nearing the top of the climb
Tim carrying on through
Nancy at the top
Liz realizing she's going to crash into my trailer
A beautiful, warm day greeted us as we ate breakfast and moved our bikes + gear down from our hotel 3 stories to ground level. A bit of nervousness, I think, among the group, since the task and distances ahead were unknown and unquantifiable to at least 3 of them. After assembling ourselves we moved slowly and carefully out into the rushing Italian traffic and headed South. Although fast and frantic and driving on narrow roads, the Italian drivers are excellent with respect to cyclists, and it was no problem at all riding through busy downtown Florence, even for me with my wide 100-pound bicycle trailer in tow.
After 7km we left Florence and moved onto smaller roads. A punishing switchbacking climb woke up all of our legs and was a good reality check that we would have to earn the miles here in Italy. The pace dropped, but everyone soldiered on patiently and cheerfully. From there on in to Castelfiorentino the road rolled, sometimes dramatically, but offered many tremendous views over the Tuscan countryside. The Old World buildings that we rolled by added to the ambiance, yes, I'm not sure you can beat Tuscany for cycling. Food and drinks were plentifully available, now at quite reasonable prices, as opposed to downtown Florence (now similar prices to Canada, including the exchange rate). The temperature climbed and at 1pm was close to 20C... perfect cycling weather.
We rolled into Castelfiorentino a tired but happy group, ready for tomorrow's hilly ride to Volterra. I'm quite happy and impressed with how well everyone did today, particularly how positive everyone stayed when the hills got bad (i.e. a bit of walking for some). I get the feeling that everyone felt a sense of accomplishment with today's ride and they now know that the distances are do-able, not just numbers pulled out of my hat when I planned the trip out!
Kenton leading the charge up the hill
Looking over the Tuscan landscape
Dad nearing the top of the climb
Tim carrying on through
Nancy at the top
Liz realizing she's going to crash into my trailer
Florence pics
Fountain of Neptune
The Duomo
Climbing the Duomo's dome
Florence from the top of the Duomo's dome
Liz in the claustrophobic stairway in the Duomo's dome
The Ponte Vecchio over the Arno River
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
February 20 :: Florence, Italy
February 20 :: Florence, Italy
Today was "Florence Day" as we all dashed around downtown Florence, packing in as much sightseeing as possible before 5pm, when most of the tourist sites close in the Winter off-season. Even though we are in the quietest tourist time of year there were still lineups at some of the venues. I can't imagine what it would be like in the summer!
We all split up, but ended up doing most of the same things - the huge Duomo (church) that dominates downtown, a particular museum that houses (among other things) Michelangelo's David, and various significant open-air plazas around town. There still is much more to see, but we have another Florence Day planned at the end of the trip just before flying home.
Everyone is belabouring the food (of all things!) already... its not that the food is bad, its that its all the same, without variety. Among, say, a random 15 restaurants 7 will be Italian sitdown style, the other 8 will be quickeat Italian panini, pizza, and ice cream. Very surprising, especially considering the legions of foreign tourists from all over the world trucking through here.
The weather has given us the green light, and at night we assembled all the bikes. Our hotel is storing the bike boxes until we get back to Florence, 2 weeks from now. Tomorrow is a 42km ride to Castelfiorentino... much nervousness and anticipation amongst the group. For 3 of the 6 riders it will be their longest bike ride ever!
(Florence pics coming with the next post)
Today was "Florence Day" as we all dashed around downtown Florence, packing in as much sightseeing as possible before 5pm, when most of the tourist sites close in the Winter off-season. Even though we are in the quietest tourist time of year there were still lineups at some of the venues. I can't imagine what it would be like in the summer!
We all split up, but ended up doing most of the same things - the huge Duomo (church) that dominates downtown, a particular museum that houses (among other things) Michelangelo's David, and various significant open-air plazas around town. There still is much more to see, but we have another Florence Day planned at the end of the trip just before flying home.
Everyone is belabouring the food (of all things!) already... its not that the food is bad, its that its all the same, without variety. Among, say, a random 15 restaurants 7 will be Italian sitdown style, the other 8 will be quickeat Italian panini, pizza, and ice cream. Very surprising, especially considering the legions of foreign tourists from all over the world trucking through here.
The weather has given us the green light, and at night we assembled all the bikes. Our hotel is storing the bike boxes until we get back to Florence, 2 weeks from now. Tomorrow is a 42km ride to Castelfiorentino... much nervousness and anticipation amongst the group. For 3 of the 6 riders it will be their longest bike ride ever!
(Florence pics coming with the next post)
Monday, February 18, 2008
Pre-trip info
Hello, its Graham writing to you. Time for another cycling trip. This one will be very different than the others I've done... there are 5 of my family and friends coming along! We are cycling a 2 week, 450km loop in the Tuscany region of Italy. Tuscany is one of the most highly-rated cycling destinations in the world, with plenty of things to see and do, lots of accomodation and restaurants, as well as quiet, beautiful roads through consistently pleasant scenery. We are flying in and out of Florence, Tuscany's biggest city, a major tourist destination unto itself. A listing of participants:
Me (Graham Durrant)
Liz Heyland (my girlfriend)
Nancy Durrant (my sister)
Tim Anderson (her husband, and a University friend of mine)
Bruce Durrant (my father)
Kenton Dulling (my friend)
Logistics: To account for the significant variability in cycling experience amongst the group, we have adapted a packing strategy that will allow for everyone to have an enjoyable ride and for no one to be left behind. I am fairly strong and very experienced cyclist (and a bit masochistic to boot), so I will be pulling a trailer carrying 3 people's worth of gear: mine, Liz's, and my father's, as well as the tools, spare tubes, etc. Tim and Kenton are both solid cyclists, and will carry their own gear, plus Tim will carry my sister's gear. Nancy, Liz, and my father will ride completely unladen - just the bike and themselves. Should make the Tuscan hills challenging but do-able for all!
Today (Monday February 18th) we all fly to Italy... the first riding day will probably be Thursday, February 21. There may be Florence pics uploaded before then. Enjoy the ride!
Me (Graham Durrant)
Liz Heyland (my girlfriend)
Nancy Durrant (my sister)
Tim Anderson (her husband, and a University friend of mine)
Bruce Durrant (my father)
Kenton Dulling (my friend)
Logistics: To account for the significant variability in cycling experience amongst the group, we have adapted a packing strategy that will allow for everyone to have an enjoyable ride and for no one to be left behind. I am fairly strong and very experienced cyclist (and a bit masochistic to boot), so I will be pulling a trailer carrying 3 people's worth of gear: mine, Liz's, and my father's, as well as the tools, spare tubes, etc. Tim and Kenton are both solid cyclists, and will carry their own gear, plus Tim will carry my sister's gear. Nancy, Liz, and my father will ride completely unladen - just the bike and themselves. Should make the Tuscan hills challenging but do-able for all!
Today (Monday February 18th) we all fly to Italy... the first riding day will probably be Thursday, February 21. There may be Florence pics uploaded before then. Enjoy the ride!
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